Volterra lies on a hill 550 metres above sea-level in the heart of Tuscany -the home of some of Italy's most magnificent historic, artistic and archaeological treasures.

From the dominating heights of this ancient Etruscan city, green hills and valleys fall away in undulating curves towards the city of Pisa -one hour distant by road -and towards the Tuscan coastline at Cecina -a 45-minute drive. There is also easy access to the renowned cultural and artistic centres of Florence and Siena, also just an hour away by car.

Our "Podere" (farmhouse), set within this beautifullandscape, is a short five-minute drive from the city. From here you can explore wooded hills, visit ancient castles and churches, and discover timeless hamlets -where Italians continue to live and work much as their Etruscan and Roman ancestors did in centuries gone by.

For the more energetic visitor, a mountain-bike ride will reveal by-ways that have completely escaped modern development. But -whether bike-riding or walking -one can indulge in traditional country fare at chamling local trattorie and restaurants.

Volterra has some 11,000 inhabitants. Its cultural roots stretch back almost 3,000 years and the city is fortunate that much of this history -Etruscan, Roman and Medieval- is still evident in its architecture and monuments, and in the prized collections found in the city museums.

Within the city walls, THE GUARNACCI ETRUSCAN MUSEUM has important displays of pre-historic, Roman and Etruscan artefacts. The main body of the museum houses many fine objects from the Etruscan period -the majority of which have been discovered in the Volterra region. Amongst a vast collection of cinerary urns, the exhibits include the renowned "URN OF mE MARRIED COUPLE". Also on display is the remarkable- and now world-renowned -"OMBRA DELLA SERA" (Shadow of the Evening) bronze statuette, named by the poet and patriot, Gabriele D' Annunzio.

Walking the short distance from here to the city's art gallery, the visitor will pass along Via Don Minzoni, Via Gramsci and Via Dei Sarti, where impressive Classical and Medieval facades cast their shadows onto these narrow streets. The Renaissance PALAZZO MINUCCI-SOLANI now houses the city's marvellous collection of mainly Tuscan masters, many of which were originally hung in monasteries and churches within the area. Be sure to see the remarkable painting: DESCENT FROM THE CROSS (1521) by Rosso Fiorentino.

Just a short stroll from the city centre is THE ROMAN THEATRE. Built in the first Ist century A.D, it has an unusual history --falling into disuse and disappearing beneath a mountain of refuse thrown there by succeeding genemtions of local inhabitants during the Middle Ages. In more recent times it became a football pitch, but -thanks to the detennined effort of Professor Enrico Fiumi -the area became the subject of archeaological excavation and now visitors are able to view the fruit ofhis work. The city's beautiful park is named after Fiwni in recognition ofhis endeavours.

The central piazza is an important feature of all Italian towns and Volterra excels with her PIAZZA DEI PRIORI This austere but beautiful square can be entered from all four comers. It is bordered by medieval mansions and palazzi and is dominated by the PALAZZO DEI PRIORI (1208-1254). This town hall is the oldest building ofits kind in Tuscany and the council chamber with its wall-to-wall freschi (after Orcagna) is well worth a visit.

The original Etruscan walls of Volterra were, in their time, nearly three times the circumference of the present Medieval walls. Several lengths of these original walls still exist and are well-preserved at many points. The medieval walls contain seven "porte" (doors or entrances), the most famous of which is the PORTA ALL'ARCO with its three original, colossal (and now badly-weathered) heads. The only other such Etruscan gateway remaining in Italy is in Perugia.

Almost all the buildings in the city are constructed of "Panchino", a kind of limestone, which is the matrix of alabaster --found here in abundance. Alabaster is a key source of income for Voltena, and skilled craftsmen have been producing fme sculptures and items for everyday use since Etruscan times. The most valuable alabaster is the transparent "Scaglione", which is unique to Volterra. It is mined from great depths.

Be sure to set aside time to visit the workshops within the city where you can see exquisite pieces taking shape, and to see finished products in the many specialist shops.

As you leave the city to return to "Podere Filettro", you may like to visit our parish church of San Giusto (1628) in Borgo San Giusto. This impressive church replaced the original building which was swept away by landslips, along with the earliest necropolis of Volterra. These landslips left behind the formidable precipice of the "Balze" (Crags), now a famous landmark. Further down the road you will see the abandoned thousand- year-old Camaldolese "Badia" (Abbey) on its hilltop. Now largely ruined, only its cloister remains intact. However, for safety reasons, this building is not open to the public.